Well with about 1 month and 1 week left in our apartment, we are about 40% complete with the master bedroom. Which means we need to get the other 60% done in about 5 weeks. Holy crap on a stick!!!!!!! So I have decided to try and figure out a way to refinish my floors. Now I think my floors are heart of pine wood, I don't really know, but I assume so because I live in Florida and there are pine trees everywhere pluss a neighbor told me that. I have heard the pine is a softwood and might not be a good idea to use a drum sander on it, especially since I have not used a drum sander in my life. But paying someone to sand it isn't an option either, since I don't have that kind of money. So I am left with doing this myself and trying to make sure I do it right the first time.
Yesterday I took my orbital palm sander and took a few swipes at the floor and it started to sand off the stain or whatever was on there. But I could see that where 2 boards meet one side didn't get sanded and I would have to tilt the sander to try and sand that area. So in my brilliant observation I assume my floors aren't level, well the boards aren't at least. I don't think chemically stripping them is a good idea either, since I have gaps between my boards and I don't want anything sitting in there for a long time.
I've also read where people think you shouldn't use a drum sander because it makes the floors look brand new, I guess the idea is to make them look old without the old nasty black gunk on them. So is using the palm sander my best option? Has anyone refinished their pine floors and could give me advise?
Oh yeah, we haven't even painted the walls yet, but thats our next project, then sanding the floors.
Thursday, August 11, 2005
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2 comments on "How I should refinish my floors"
Hi there! We just went through(okay, not done yet...)a similar issue with the floors. Our floors are pine as well, close to 100 years old. They had a layer of thick, gummy paint on them, so the drum sander didn't work, anyway. We ended up using a planer to remove a thin layer and yes, some wood removed as well. Also used this tool (can't remember the name) that basically looks like a giant razor with a single blade at the end. This was used in "stubborn" areas and where the floor wasn't quite level. You can check out photos at http://thedirtyhouse.blogspot.com/2005/08/floor-is-finished.html
This took A LOT of hours, however, paying someone was out of the question. We then used 5 coats of clear polyurethene and done. The scent of pine filled the air for a few the days before the finish went on. Of course it doesn't look perfect, but that wasn't the intent. He left a little bit of paint here and there. Good luck and feel free to ask any questions!
Hello,
We also have pine floors, and have sanded and varnished, no problem.
That gummy paint will kill your paper, but if you've had your orbital sander on it then you probably know it glazes the paper really quickly. If this is the case it's best to use a chemical strip to take the top (old) varnish coats off, or just buy lots of sanding paper!
You can use a drum sander on your softwood floor, no problem. ***IMPORTANT** DO NOT let the drum sander rest moitionless in contact withthe floor, if its running, you will cut a rut into your boards VERY EASILY. When you touch down to sand try to stagger your start points, and once in contact MOVE and dont stop! Lift (tilt backwards) before you stop.
Start with the coarsest grade (40 - 60 grit) if your floor is old and uneven, which it will be. Cut across the grain at about 20degrees, first in one direction, then the other, then along the grain. Clean the floor (vacuum), and swap for a finer grit (60-80) and repeat, you want to work out any scratches you put in while you were using the coarse grit.
Repeat with a finer grit, your boards will now look flat and very WHITE! If your lucky you may have some pinkish heartwood tones, but your finish will obliterate those!
Decide if you want a satin or gloss finish, if your going to you polyurethane varnish (i did) then vacuum the floor and take a make a tack rag with an old lint free cloth soaked in some white spirit (turps) - wipe the entire floor. I found it useful to vacuum the walls and doors before the floor, you do not want any dust or hairs in your varnish - think surgical operating theatre...... also you will definately want to remove your shoes after the sanding is done, but DO NOT walk about in your sweaty socks, this will leave stains on your new floor before you varnish it!
If you want to tone down your glaring white boards, you can stain, I didn't bother as I used a tinted varnish, you may want to talk to your retailer as it makes a difference which dye you use, depending on which type of varnish you choose. (water vs oil based).
Varnish your floor, sand lightly with 150-200 grit between coats, and vacuum and tack rag before nexrt coat!
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